| Bangkok off the beaten path
Explore a different side of Thailand's capital
“Pure sensory overload!” That is how I’d described Bangkok, when I’d visited Thailand’s capital back in 2015.
Returning there right as the country reopened in November 2021 was different in so many ways. Being almost the only “felang” (Thai for tourist) there, made for a surreal experience.
Khao San road had died. The few boats on the Chao Phraya river carried rise and other cargo. Long-tail boats with tourists were nowhere to be found. The TukTuks that drove past were more likely to be filled with vegetables than with people.
But one thing stayed the same. Bangkok was still pure sensory overload!
Meanwhile, tourists are slowly returning to this beautiful city. In this blog, you will read all about how to discover Bangkok in all its diversity. With tips to get off the beaten track.
In this blog we use several links to make your visit to Bangkok easier. We refer to services like arranging transport, beautiful locations, good places to eat and drink, etc. Enough reason to add this blog to your favourites, so you will always have these tips at hand when navigating this metropolis.
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Why a guide to Bangkok off the beaten track?
Bangkok has so much to offer. There’s just so much to do!
Some of these things are well-known, like a visit to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, the malls, Khao San road (if it ever regains its form) and the floating market. We can recommend all of these activities, but would also suggest trying a route less travelled.
Take a long tour (either by foot, bike or TukTuk) through China Town, visit Wat Pho beyond the Reclining Buddha, take a long-tail boat through the Klongs and learn why Bangkok is called the Venice of the East, see the locals work out in their favourite park, taste some of its amazing street food and alternate this with a visit to one of its many high-end restaurants.
Below you will find an overview of our experiences, tips, tricks and must-do’s.
Exploring the wonders of China Town
The first thing we did, on our first full day in Bangkok, was a long tour through China Town with Co van Kessel, an organisation I had wonderful memories of from my previous visit to Bangkok, when I did a bike tour with them.
This time, because of Mau’s back problems and his wish to be able to make photos along the way, we opted for a walking tour alternated with moments in a TukTuk. What a ride this tour was!
Going through the small allies of China Town early in the morning, is an experience we will never forget. Bangkok’s China Town went far beyond our imagination.
We made our way to a small square where an old, rusted Fiat 600 sits as a landmark. Without asking the men started to clear the scooters around it away as soon as they saw Mau take out his camera.
The next moment we were suddenly on a corner somewhere, standing between a parrot and a lump-headed fish, when a tiny monkey who lived in an old soda fridge was suddenly on my hand nibbling on my index finger.
The next turn brought us to a on old Chinese temple, where 8 is the luckiest number.
Then we moved past the oldest Chinese house, to streets filled with piles upon piles of old motor blocks, to streets with mounds of hardware, to streets filled with gold shops, to streets with gun shop after gun shop. “Guns are popular in this part of town,” our guide explained. This was a bit of a surreal experience for us Dutchies, but we never felt unsafe.
The next moment a TukTuk took us over street-markets from the absolute best whiff of air we’d ever smelled, to the absolute worst, and back again. There were times I was glad for the fact I had to wear a face mask, which was mandatory due to corona. At other times, I couldn’t believe that something that smelled so good, could be food that was directly created on the street.
We cannot recommend visiting Bangkok’s China Town with an expert guide more. Get lost there, without actually getting lost! It’s an experience you’ll never forget!
The Klongs
The next day we discovered why Bangkok is called the Venice of the East.
Again using the services of Co van Kessel, we took a long-tailed boot through The Klongs. These are canals branching of the Chao Phraya river, which flow through the Western part of the city (also known as Thonburi, the old part of Bangkok). Being here is a humbling and educational experience.
Bangkok as a whole is lined with contrasts, but nowhere does this become more tangible than in the Klongs.
Old wooden buildings that are half in the water, completely eroded, decayed, sit side by side with some of the most expensive residences in the city. Together they are alternated with green spaces (where the locals grow water spinach), the odd water monitor swimming by, and many temples glistening in the sun.
Like the Chao Phraya river, the Klongs are overflowing with catfish, which the local people were feeding from the balustrades of the temples.
Often we could see them releasing even more catfish in the water – “a prayer for good luck and abundance” our guide explained. I don’t know if the people will eventually find this abundance, but their prayers had surely contributed to an abundance of catfish.
We can definitely recommend visiting the Klongs with an experienced guide or tour company.
I will surely never forget that at one point our long-tailed boot docked at a temple on an island, where we were suddenly peering over a beloved monk’s dead body. He had been laying there for twelve years already.
This is not customary in Thailand, but this monk had requested that he would not be cremated but be displayed like this, where the local people could continue to visit him and pay their respects.
Gold leaf was glistening on his remains, left there to commemorate his birthdays. “When it gets really hot, they put on the aircon”, our guide entrusted us.
Having visited Venice a few years back before our wedding, we must say the Klongs are nothing like the grandeur of the famous Canal Grande and its branches. But to us it’s an equally amazing and beautiful experience in its own unique way.
Of course, there are different organisations that offer tours through the Klongs. In addition to the one we did, we also found this tour.
Reflect on the day from the comforts of a trendy roof top bar
How better to relax and reflect on the experiences of an activity packed day, than with a tropical cocktail in a bar high up in the sky?
Bangkok is known for having many trendy roof top bars from which you can see the city from an entirely different perspective, once again.
This was something I really wanted to do! So before heading to Thailand, I profusely studied the best bars, with the best views and the best potential sunsets. I have listed what I found below.
However, when we finally were in Bangkok, we felt too tired from all the impressions of the days to go out at night in pursuit of any of these high-listings.
Luckily our hotel in the modern, cosmopolitan Pathum Wan district actually had a really nice roof top bar located on its 26th floor – which is high enough for my taste. Combine this with an incredible lychee cocktail and divine (spicey!) chicken sate and we looked no further. You can find this bar here.
Our list of the best roof top bars
1. Red Sky
This popular roof top bar on the 55th floor of CentralWorld offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city. You’ll find this in the popular shopping district of Siam Bangkok. There is a dress-code: smart-casual, no singlet, flip flops, shorts. Red Sky is open from 17:00h till 24:00h daily, latest order is at 23:00h.
2. Vertigo at Banyan Tree Bangkok
This romantic roof top bar and restaurant (with international cuisine) also offers 360-degrees panoramic views of Bangkok, including Lumpini Park and the Chao Phraya river. It is located on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel in the Sathon district. Dress-code is smart-casual. Opening times of the bar are from 17:00h till 01:00h.
This art-deco sky bar and restaurant on the 46st floor of the Sky Walk Residences offers a 180-degree vista of the Sukhumvit district, including magnificent sunsets. Its prices are affordable compared to the other roof top bars in the area. Cielo Sky Bar opens at 18:00h and closes at 24:00h. The dress-code is smart-casual. Flip flops, athletic apparel and backpacks are not permitted.
4. Sirocco
Probably the most famous sky bar in Bangkok, due to its role in the movie The Hangover II. It is located on the 64th floor of the luxury five-star hotel Lebua at State Tower in the Bang Rak district, alongside the Chao Phraya river. This sky bar has one of the more strict smart-casual dress-codes in town and is also on the more expensive side. The Sirocco opens at 17:00h and closes at 23:00h.
This ambient roof top bar and modern Thai restaurant is not as well known yet as our other tips. You’ll find Bangkok Heightz on the 39th floor on the rooftop of the Continent Hotel in the Watthana district. Opened daily from 11:30h till 24:00h. The dress-code is also smart-casual.
6. SEEN Restaurant & Bar Bangkok
This 1980s meets art-deco restaurant and lounge on the 26th floor of the Avani Plus Riverside Bangkok hotel, offers a modern Portuguese-Brazilian cuisine. Its roof top bar is located on the 27th floor, which is not as high as some of the other roof top bars in this list, but the views are still spectacular as SEEN overlooks the city skyline and the Chao Phraya river. You’ll find SEEN Restaurant & Bar in the Thon Buri district. Dress-code is smart-casual and opening times are from 11:00h till 24:00h.
Lumpini park
Looking for a nice change of pace, we visited Lumpini park. This is the locals’ favourite park in the city and a place where many of them choose to work out.
With its 57.6 hectare, the park, which can be found in the Pathum Wan district, gives ample room to go jogging, cycling or just to stroll around a bit – like we did.
If you go to Lumpini, look out for some of the famous water monitors. These swimming lizards can be as large as 1.5 to 2 meters and are the second-heaviest type of lizard after the Komodo dragon (which we had previously witnessed in Indonesia).
They are known to populate Lumpini park and we’ve seen several of them swimming in or sunbathing near some of its artificial lakes.
Have one of the best Thai massages at Wat Pho
Wat Pho is one of the most well-known temples of Thailand, as it is home to the famous reclining Buddha. But what not everyone knows is that it also contains one of the best massage schools in the country.
We took a traditional Thai massage there – which is different from other massages that one would usually get in Asia or Europe, as it works much more with pressure points. And pressure we felt!
“Wow! I’d never met a lady before, with tumps so powerful!”
Pain and pleasure existed close together in the atmospherically decorated massage parlour. Or in our case: they were lying exactly side by side. With myself suffering through much of the massage, whereas Maurits experienced it much more as pleasurable and alleviating some of his tremendous backpains.
But no matter if you usually enjoy massages (I don’t), doing this as an activity in Wat Pho is definitely something we can recommend. It’ll give you a new perspective on one of Bangkok’s most famous temples.
Visit Wat Pho during lunch time, and we can also definitely recommend having a meal at Baan Tha Tien. This restaurant is right across the street and served some of the best Pad Thai and Tom Kha Gai soup we had during our entire time in Thailand, and for a very(!!) reasonable prize.
Nusara
Only a few alleys away from Baan Tha Tien (and Wat Pho), we had a very different dining experience.
Bangkok is not only known for its cheap, amazing street food, but also for its haute cuisine. And, off course, this was one of those experiences that we didn’t want to miss, as it is so much part of what makes Bangkok such a versatile and inspiring place.
Again I profusely researched the internet for the best high-end restaurants that fit this description. The list I came up with can be found here below. But for all my research, we hadn’t actually properly planned this part of our trip. And so it was pure chance that we finally ended up in Nusara: one of Asia’s most expensive 50 best restaurants.
This was a culinary experience we surely are not going to forget any time soon, and not only because of the bill 😉.
The tasting menu was, like the city of Bangkok itself, an authentic feast for the senses that combined and enlarged the traditional flavours of Thailand. I particularly enjoyed the classic crab curry served on a crispy betel leaf. Maurits was very surprised that he suddenly liked eating mackerel, as long as it comes with coconut, cucumber, young turmeric and some chef magic.
Other high-end restaurants in Bangkok on our list
This one Michelin star restaurant offers modern Thai fine dining in the Pathum Wan district. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin is inspired by its sister, and fellow Michelin star, restaurant Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen. It was conceptualised by world renowned chef Henrik Yde-Anderson, but is run by head chef Chayawee. Only 30 guests can be seated at one time, therefore it is necessary (as with our other tips) to make a reservation in advance.
À la carte and fixed menus are available, including an 8-course ‘Signature Journey’.
Open from Wednesday till Sunday.
Email: Srabua.siambangkok@kempinski.com
Tel: +66(0)21629000
2. Khao
This restaurant in Bangkok’s Wattana district is named after the Thai staple ingredient ‘rice’, which also translates to ‘food’. The restaurant is decorated to resemble a traditional Thai rice barn. Fresh, premium ingredients are used with traditional Thai cooking methods to create both essential and creative Thai dishes. Khao offers a Chef’s Table Menu of 6, 8 or 10 courses.
It also offers a cooking class where you can learn to cook traditional Thai dishes.
Opened daily.
Email: info@Khaogroup.com
Tel: +66(0)23812575
3. Sorn
Two Michelin star restaurant in Bangkok’s Sukhumvit area that is based around fine southern Thai cuisine, with most of its dishes prepared from ancient recipes, using slow-cooking methods. Sorn is based in a reconstructed old house and carries a tropical forest ambiance.
Opened Tuesday till Sunday from 18:00h till 23:00h.
Tel: +66(0)990811119
4. Le Du
One Michelin star restaurant Le Du, comes from the same chef that is also behind Nusara, ‘Ton’ Thitid, who learned many of the tricks of the trade from his time working in Michelin-starred restaurants in New York City. Le Du comes from the Thai word ‘season’ and refers to the restaurants’ commitment to working with seasonal produce. The dishes are inspired on various centuries old cultures that are known to Thailand.
Opened Monday till Saturday, from 18:00h till 22:00h.
Email: info@ledubkk.com
Tel: +66(0)929199969
5. Saneh Jaan
This restaurant in the Pathum Wan district, enjoys one Michelin star. The name refers to an authentic Thai desert that is served on very special occasions. The menu is vintage Thai and includes recipes and ingredients from all the different regions in the country. It goes without saying that the deserts in this place are known to be outstanding, which especially goes for the ‘Traditional Golden Deserts’ plate.
Opened daily.
Email: info@sanehjaan.com
Tel: +66 (0)2 650 9880
6. 80/20
This one Michelin-starred restaurant boasts its own inhouse fermentation lab to create two innovative seasonal tasting menus. 80/20 is found in the Maha Pruttaram district and combines ‘old’ and ‘new’ in terms of cooking techniques and Thai flavours. The name of the restaurant originally refers to the ratio of local (80%) and imported (20%) ingredients, but overtime the chef has decided to commit to make his ingredients 100% local.
Opened Wednesday till Sunday for dinner.
Email: info@8020bkk.com
Tel: +66(0)991182200
Where to stay in Bangkok?
We stayed in two different hotels and within two different areas of Bangkok, both of which are worthy of a recommendation. Our first hotel was Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road, a modern Orientally-decorated high rise hotel in Bangkok’s Pathum Wan district.
This is one of Bangkok’s most modern districts, which lies just on the outskirts of the old city, where you can find most of its high-rises, roof top bars and shopping malls. This is also the district where you can find Lumpini Park.
When we returned to Bangkok for a second time, towards the end of our Thailand trip, we stayed at Riva Surya Bangkok. A very tranquil hotel on the banks of the Chao Phraya river. This hotel is very centrally located in the Phra Nakhon district, within a ten minute walk from Khao San road and just a small TukTuk ride away from the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
Hi, we are Samira & Maurits, a travel-hungry couple with a passion for photography.
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